⏱ Read time: 7 min | 🌿 Difficulty: Beginner | ⏰ Time: Half a day (4 hrs) | 👷 1 person
The clocks go back, the job runs late, and suddenly it’s pitch black and you're working by torchlight. Sound familiar?
Temporary work lighting solves that problem in minutes, but the real question is whether you should be hiring them or buying them?
Read on to find out more.
Why usage frequency is the real question
Every trader has a van full of kit that gets used once in a blue moon. Work lighting is one of the easiest categories to get wrong, because it feels like a sensible thing to own, but most jobs only need it for a day or two at a time.
- If you're lighting the odd loft conversion, garage job or finish working in the evening two or three times a year, hiring beats buying on cost alone.
- If you're working in poor light every week, owning a rechargeable LED worklight makes more sense.
- If a job needs whole-site lighting rather than one work light, that's a hire decision every time.
How much light do you actually need? (Lux requirements)
Before comparing products, it's worth knowing how much light the job actually requires.
The HSE's Lighting at Work guidance (HSG38) sets out recommended lux levels for different types of work.
Their guidance for construction site confirms that artificial lighting must be provided wherever natural light isn't enough for people to work and move around safely.
- General movement, walkways and areas where machinery or vehicles operate: around 20 lux minimum, 50 lux average.
- Rough or general site work, such as clearance or loading: similar levels to the above, since fine detail isn't the priority.
- Detailed trade work, such as plastering, tiling, joinery finishing or electrical work: 100 lux minimum, aiming for 200 lux or more.
In practical terms: a single rechargeable work light is usually enough for close, detailed work in one room. A whole garage, workshop or site entrance needs a floodlight or lighting tower to hit those levels evenly across a bigger area.
Types of temporary work lighting, compared
Here's how the main types break down, so you can match the light to the job rather than guessing.
Cordless and battery powered work lights
Best for: close, detailed work in one spot, such as plastering, tiling or fitting.
The Smithlight LED Work Light is a good example — a battery powered LED unit with a runtime of up to 12 hours, weather and dustproof, and mountable on a tripod or flat surface.
Rechargeable battery work lights
Best for: tradespeople who move between rooms or vans regularly and don't want trailing cables.
The LED Rechargeable Work Light runs at up to 3600 lumens on full power, stepping down to 1800 and 1000 lumens on lower settings, so you can match brightness to the task without draining the battery unnecessarily.
LED work lights and floodlights
Best for: wider, near shadow-free illumination across a room or work area.
Our LED Work Light (self-righting, 110V) can be linked together to create a chain of lights, and its counterweighted base means it rocks back upright if knocked rather than tipping over, which matters on a busy site.
Plasterer's lights
Best for: finishing work where flat, even light across a wall or ceiling matters more than raw brightness.
The LED Compact Plasterer's Light comes on a floor stand with two power take-off points, so several can be linked for a bigger area.
Lighting towers
Best for: whole-site lighting, entrances, car parks or larger outdoor areas.
Our range of Lighting Towers includes diesel, electric and solar powered options for jobs that run into the evening or overnight.
Case study: an electrician working through winter
An electrician taking on a loft conversion in November found the days too short to finish first-fix wiring before it got dark.
Rather than buying a lighting tower for a two-week job, they hired a rechargeable LED work light for the loft space itself and a single floodlight for the landing below, where tools and materials were being carried up and down.
The whole setup was delivered the next day, cost a fraction of the price, and went back to HSS DIY once the first-fix was signed off.
The job finished on time despite the shorter days, and there was no lighting kit left cluttering the van afterwards.
Timeline: getting set up
- Before starting: work out how many rooms or areas need lighting, and roughly how detailed the work in each one is. Then order your chosen LED work lights online for next day delivery, or hire in branch if you need it same day.
- Day 1: position lights before you start work. Check walkways and work areas are both covered, not just the task itself.
- Throughout the job: reposition lighting as work moves between rooms or areas, rather than trying to light the whole site from one spot.
- End of hire period: return or arrange collection, with no storage, maintenance or charging cycles to think about afterwards.
Hire or buy: Which one is best for temporary work lighting?
There’s pro and cons for both, depending on your circumstances. We’ve put hire and buy temporary work lighting side by side, so you can see the comparisons.
If you do decide a small handheld light is worth owning for regular use, we have torches, head torches and inspection lights to buy from brands including Ledlenser, Lighthouse and Maglite.
Please note: if your order includes multiple items, they may arrive separately.
Health and safety considerations
Being safe whilst working is imperative! Here’s a few things to check before you work.
- Keep cables and leads off walkways wherever possible, or cover them, since a trip hazard undoes the point of better lighting.
- Position lights so they don't shine directly into anyone's eyes, including people working nearby or passing through.
- Check any mains powered lighting is suitable for the environment. Damp, dusty or outdoor sites need equipment rated for those conditions.
Pair better lighting with the right safety glasses and goggles and gloves for the task itself. Good light reduces mistakes, but it doesn't replace the right PPE for the job.
Lighting decision checklist
Run through this before your next job to work out what you actually need.
- How many separate areas or rooms need lighting?
- Is the work close and detailed (aim for 100 to 200 lux) or general movement and access (20 to 50 lux)?
- Will this type of job come up again in the next month, or is it a one-off?
- Is mains power available, or does it need to be battery or rechargeable?
- Does the site need whole-area lighting (a tower) or task lighting (a work light)?
- Are going to hire lighting for this job, or is it worth buying outright?
The bottom line
Work lighting is one of those decisions that's easy to overthink.
Match the light to the lux the job actually needs, be honest about how often you'll really use it, and let that answer the hire or buy question rather than guessing.
That's what being the Home of Great Projects means to us: giving traders the right kit for the job, at the size and cost the job actually calls for.
Buy the materials. Hire the tools. One order. All in one place.
Get DIY Happy with HSS DIY.
Should I hire or buy a work light for a one-off job?
Hire!
Buying kit for a single job almost always costs more than a short hire once you account for the fact it'll sit unused afterwards.
How many lumens do I need for a work light?
It depends on the task and the size of the space.
As a rough guide, detailed trade work needs roughly 100 to 200 lux, while general movement areas need considerably less.
A rechargeable worklight offering up to 3600 lumens on full power covers most single-room jobs comfortably.
What's the difference between a cordless worklight and a rechargeable worklight?
In practice the terms overlap.
Both run on a battery rather than a cable, but "rechargeable" specifically means the battery charges up via a lead or dock rather than needing disposable batteries swapped out.
Can I use battery powered work lights outdoors?
Many are designed for it, but always check the IP rating on the specific product first. Units rated IP65 or higher are built to handle dust and rain.
Is it cheaper to hire lighting for a whole site rather than buy?
Almost always, yes.
A lighting tower or multiple floodlights represent a serious purchase cost, on top of transport and storage between jobs. Hiring scales the cost to the length of the job instead.
What lux level do I need for a construction site generally?
General movement and vehicle areas need a minimum of around 20 lux, with 50 lux as a sensible average, according to HSE's Lighting at Work guidance. Detailed trade work needs considerably more, so check the task rather than the whole site.
Related HSS DIY resources
- Guide to Outdoor Lighting, for choosing between lighting types and power sources on bigger jobs
- HSS DIY's Electrical & Lighting blog hub, for further how-to content
- HSS ProService on YouTube, for product walkthroughs
























































