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How to add under-cabinet kitchen lighting: a beginner's guide
Under-cabinet kitchen lighting is one of the few kitchen upgrades that genuinely looks like it cost more than it did.
Here's exactly how to fit it yourself, from choosing LED strip lights to routing the switch.
Why under-cabinet lighting is worth the afternoon
Under-cabinet lighting throws light exactly where you're working rather than casting your own shadow over the chopping board from an overhead light.
It also makes a kitchen look considerably more finished for very little outlay.
Most home versions run on low-voltage LED lights powered through a small transformer (sometimes called a driver), which plugs into a normal socket, so you don't need to touch your consumer unit or run a new mains circuit.
LED strip lights vs LED spotlights: which should you choose?
Both use the same low-voltage LED lighting technology, so the real difference is how the light looks and how you fit it.
If this is your first go at any kind of lighting installation, LED strip lights are the more forgiving choice: fewer connections, less drilling, and mistakes are easier to redo.
Before you start: what you'll need
Our strength here is the tools, not the lighting kit itself, so pick up your LED strip lights or spotlight kit from your usual electrical or lighting supplier, then sort the tools from HSS DIY:
- An LED strip light kit or LED spotlight kit with a transformer/driver rated for the total length you're fitting (check the wattage per metre against the driver's maximum output)
- A cordless combi drill, available to hire or buy, for pilot holes and any cable-access holes through cabinet sides
- A cable, pipe and stud detector if you're drilling anywhere near a wall, rather than just the underside of a cabinet
- A spirit level to keep the strip running dead straight along the cabinet
- A screwdriver or impact driver for mounting clips and any inline switch
- An RCD adaptor for extra protection while you're working with anything plugged in near a kitchen sink
Switch routing: how to turn your lights on and off
This is the part that trips people up, so here are your three realistic options, in order of simplicity:
- Inline rocker switch on the cable is the simplest option. Most LED strip kits include one, or you can buy one separately; it sits on the low-voltage cable between the transformer and the strip, so there's no interaction with your mains wiring at all.
- A spare switch on an existing double socket. If you have a switched double socket nearby with a spare switch, some transformers can be left permanently plugged in and controlled from there, though check the transformer is rated to be left connected.
- PIR or touch-sensor switch. Handy if you want the lights to come on automatically when you're at the worktop. These sit inline on the low-voltage side too, so fitting is no different to a standard switch.
What you want to avoid, as a beginner, is wiring the transformer directly into your mains lighting circuit or adding a new socket specifically for it.
That's a job for a registered electrician, not because it's illegal for you to attempt in every case, but because getting it wrong in a kitchen carries real risk, and it may need to be tested and certified to comply with UK wiring regulations (BS 7671) regardless of who does the work.
How to fit LED strip lights: step by step
- Measure each cabinet run. Measure the length of worktop each cabinet covers, not just the cabinet itself, so the light reaches right to the edges.
- Plan the cable route. Decide where the transformer will sit (inside a cabinet or behind a plinth) and where the cable will run to reach a socket, then mark any point you'll need to drill through.
- Drill any cable-access holes. If the cable needs to pass through a cabinet side or back panel, drill a hole just large enough for the cable, using a bit slightly wider than the plug if it needs to pass through fully wired.
- Clean the cabinet underside. LED strip adhesive backing needs a clean, dry, grease-free surface to stick properly, so wipe it down and let it dry fully first.
- Mark a level guideline. Use the spirit level to draw a faint pencil line so the strip runs straight, particularly noticeable on glossy cabinet finishes.
- Cut the strip only at the marked cut points. LED strips have specific cut lines, usually shown by a scissor icon or copper pads; cutting elsewhere damages the circuit.
- Stick or clip the strip in place. Press firmly along the whole length rather than just the ends, and use the supplied clips as well if the kit includes them, since adhesive alone can fail over time in a warm kitchen.
- Connect to the transformer and test. Plug in and check the full run lights evenly before you tidy the cable away, since it's much easier to fix a dead section now than after everything's clipped down.
- Secure the cable and fit your switch. Clip or tape the cable neatly along the cabinet interior, then fit your chosen switch, and stand back to admire your handiwork with the smug satisfaction of a job well done.
Health & safety first
Kitchens carry extra electrical risk because of water and metal surfaces nearby.
Electrical Safety First notes that DIY attempts are behind a significant proportion of severe electric shocks in the home. They recommend always switching off the relevant circuit before working near existing wiring, and getting a registered electrician for anything beyond simple, low-voltage, plug-in work.
Here are some more helpful tips to keep you safe when working with electricals.
- Always unplug the transformer before making or checking connections
- Keep low-voltage cable runs away from the sink and any water splash zones
- Use an RCD-protected socket, or a plug-in RCD adaptor, for extra protection in a kitchen
- Since 2013, kitchens are no longer automatically treated as a Part P "special location" the way bathrooms are, but running an entirely new mains circuit is still notifiable work wherever it's done, so stick to plug-in, low-voltage kits for a DIY job
- Don't drill blindly into a wall behind a cabinet without checking for cables or pipes first
Case Study: brightening a dark galley kitchen
One HSS DIY customer had a narrow galley kitchen where the only light came from a single central ceiling fitting, leaving the worktops in shadow for most of the day.
They fitted LED strip lighting under three wall cabinets, running a single transformer hidden inside the end cabinet and routing the cable down to a spare switched socket already fitted with a switched spur.
The whole job took a Saturday afternoon to do and the kitchen reportedly looks noticeably larger now the worktops are no longer sitting in shadow.
Project timeline & difficulty at a glance
Hire vs buy: what's the best option for your tools?
Not sure if you should invest in the tools or simply hire & return when used? We’ve put the info side by side so you can see which option suits you best.
What HSS DIY Customers Say
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ “The product was really great, it did the job perfectly well.” - Robert’s review on our cordless drill.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ “Easy to order what I needed, delivered on the agreed day with good notice by email.” - Paul’s review on our service.
Under-cabinet lighting project checklist
Print this out or save it before you start working so you tick each item off as you go:
☐ LED strip or spotlight kit bought, with transformer rated for the total length
☐ Cable route planned, including where the transformer will sit
☐ Cable, pipe and stud detector used if drilling near a wall
☐ Cabinet undersides cleaned and dried before fitting adhesive strip
☐ Spirit level used to mark a straight guideline
☐ Strip cut only at marked cut points
☐ Full run tested before final fixing and cable tidying
☐ Switch routing decided: inline switch, existing socket, or PIR sensor
☐ RCD protection in place while working
Let there be (under-cabinet) light with HSS DIY
Under-cabinet kitchen lighting is one of those rare upgrades that's genuinely quick, genuinely cheap, and genuinely transforms the room, all at once.
Stick to a plug-in, low-voltage LED lighting kit, take your time with the switch routing, and you'll have a kitchen that's properly lit for cooking rather than just for looking at.
As the Home of Great Projects, we're glad to help you get there faster. Find all the tools you need, for both hire & buy, at our online store.
Buy the materials. Hire the tools. One order. All in one place.
Get DIY Happy with HSS DIY.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need an electrician to fit under-cabinet LED lights?
Not for a standard plug-in, low-voltage LED strip or spotlight kit powered through its own transformer. If you want the lighting wired directly into your mains lighting circuit or a new socket added specifically for it, that's a job for a registered electrician.
How many LED strip lights do I need for my kitchen?
Measure the total length of worktop you want lit and add a little extra for corners and wastage when cutting to size. Most kits are sold by the metre or in set lengths, and cabinet runs of 2 to 3 metres are typical for a standard kitchen wall unit.
Can I cut LED strip lights to fit my cabinets?
Yes, but only at the marked cut points on the strip, usually shown by a scissor icon and a pair of copper pads. Cutting anywhere else will damage the circuit and stop that section working.
What's better for a kitchen, warm white or cool white LED lights?
Warm white (around 2700K to 3000K) suits kitchens with wood tones and creates a cosier feel, while cool white (4000K to 5000K) gives a brighter, more clinical look that some people prefer for food preparation. It's a personal choice rather than a right or wrong answer.
Will under-cabinet lighting work if my kitchen sockets are a long way from the cabinets?
As long as there's a socket somewhere reasonably close, most transformer cables and extension cables can cover a few metres. Plan your cable route before you buy the kit so you know how much cable length you'll actually need.
Is it safe to leave LED under-cabinet lights on all day?
LED lights run cool and use very little power compared to older halogen strip lighting, so leaving them on for long periods isn't a fire risk in the way older lighting could be. That said, switching them off when the kitchen isn't in use is still good practice and saves electricity.
